Short Cuts: Pancetta for the simple kitchen

Mary Ann Kauchak/Columnist
Published: April 2, 2008

I've never professed to be a gourmet. My kitchen is very basic—no cappuccino makers, not even a Kitchen Aid™ mixer! So when I discover something new and different, I'm genu-inely excited and want to share the experience with you.

Well, I've discovered pancetta! Pancetta, Italian pork belly bacon, is dry-cured and seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic as opposed to its American counterpart that is smoked.  De-lightfully aromatic, it serves as an excellent flavor enhancer for myriad dishes such as quiche, pasta and lean cuts of meat. Of interest, author Pamela Sheldon Johns in her book Prosciutto, Pancetta, and Salame (Ten Speed Press), writes, "pancetta that is made in Italy can be eaten without cooking… the kind that is made in the United States… needs to be cooked."  Blanching thin slices of pancetta in boiling water for one minute, then blotting with a paper towel is one way to pre-cook.

Briefly sizzling slices in a hot nonstick skillet is another. When added raw to pasta dishes, pancetta essentially cooks itself in the hot pasta. Marcella Hazan, author of Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Canada, UK), says there is "no wholly satisfactory substitute" for pancetta. Some knowledgeable food people suggest substituting fatty prosciutto for pancetta when necessary.

Not being a fan of prosciutto, I believe its flavor to be considerably blander. My veal roll-up recipe that incorporates pancetta, Fontina cheese, roasted red pepper and basil is printed below. It evolved from ingredients that I had on hand. You could substitute accordingly. Try a different cheese, substitute fresh sage or oregano for the basil, and use chicken cutlets instead of veal. I keep a jar of roasted red peppers on hand at all times; in small amounts they awaken the flavor in countless dishes. The Pasta Pancetta is courtesy of AllRecipes.com.

VEAL ROLL-UPS ITALIAN-STYLE

4 thin veal cutlets (about 4 ounces each)*

4 thin slices pancetta, "sizzled"

4 thin slices smoked Fontina cheese

8 fresh basil leave

8 thin strips roasted red pepper

¼ cup egg substitute mixed with 1 tablespoon water

½ cup Italian breadcrum

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

¾ cup dry red wine

1 ½ tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water

1 pat butter

*(I purchase veal scaloppine cuts at Giant when they are on sale.)

Lightly pound veal to ¼-inch thick. "Sizzle" pancetta in nonstick pan, medium heat for one minute.

On each pounded cutlet, layer 1 slice pancetta, 1 slice cheese, 2 basil leaves, and 2 strips roasted pepper. Roll-up jellyroll style, secure with toothpick if necessary.

Dip each "bundle" in egg wash then breadcrumbs. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add stuffed veal and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, browning on all sides. Remove from skillet when brown and set aside.

Add red wine, cornstarch mixture and butter to hot pan; bring to boil then simmer about two min-utes. Return veal roll-ups to pan, baste with sauce, cover pan and cook about 3 minutes more. Makes 4 servings.

PASTA PANCETTA

5 shallots, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

6 ounces pancetta bacon, diced

2 cups fresh sliced mushroom

2 pinches freshly ground black pepper

2 pinches dried oregano

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/4 cup olive oil

1 (12 ounce) package linguine pasta

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until al dente; drain.

In a large skillet, cook pancetta in oil until just beginning to brown. Stir in shallots, garlic, and mushrooms: cook for one minute. Season with pepper and oregano, and pour in chicken broth. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cover, and continue to simmer for 5 to 7 minutes.

Strain liquid from pan into cooked linguine, and add olive oil. Toss to coat. Divide pasta onto indi-vidual serving plates, and top with equal portions of pancetta and mushrooms. Garnish with freshly grated Parmesan. Makes 4 servings.

Mary Ann Kauchak lives in Lake Ridge. Her third cookbook, "SHORTCUTS, TOO," is now available at Ye Olde Dominion Wine Shoppe in Occoquan. Send questions or comments in care of this paper at P.O.Box 2470, Woodbridge, VA, 22195.